I have to say, it has not been easy to shoot and edit the videos for youtube. Lack of proper equipment, experience, not knowing how to light the environment properly… it has been a steep learning curve to me. That’s why I admire Youtubers like @Psivewri, they make everything look so easy and amazing… but now I can see what it takes!
I am still far from good, but I see some improvements ?
As I learn more about this, the video quality will improve. Promise! I will get there!
To give you some perspective, below you can see the pictures of the before and after. Then, you can follow up watching the videos. Enjoy!
In the previous video, you see that there seems to be an issue when powering up the 6100. Basically, upon first power on, it didn’t display any image and didn’t do anything. Just halted. If I powered it down and up again, it then booted, but right after it start loading the extensions, it rebooted by itself and, only then, it proceeded to a full successful boot. Of course I wasn’t happy with this situation, and I was suspecting the lack of a CMOS battery could be the cause of this. So, I ordered a new 3.6v 1/2AA battery from Amazon and installed it as soon as it arrived, yesterday. Not surprisingly, the Mac started working as expected upon first boot try.
Today is a good day. Or is it goodies day? Well, I would say BOTH!
I received a donation of a lot of stuff that was just accumulating dust in some loft. In the package, was a PowerMac 6100/60 with it monitor, an Apple Stylewriter 2400 printer, a SCSI flatbed scanner and a SCSI Zip Drive. Previous owner said that it was all working before he put them away, long ago.
As always, with machines that old, chances are internal battery leaked and corroded vital parts of the motherboard. So, even before attempting to open it up (even though it is a breeze to open up a 6100 Mac), I wanted to test it. I was dying to test it, actually.
In this video, I show you the unboxing of everything and the PowerMac test. Later on, I will come up with some videos showing the cleaning up and refurbishing of the equipment. Haven’t tested the Zip Drive and printer yet. I need to clean them up first. Don’t want to risk having the dust going deeper inside if I try to see if they work ?
In this video I show an attempt to repair an external Macintosh M0130 floppy drive I bought at eBay for £30. Seller sold this as for parts or not working as he said he was unable to test it – not unusual, as you would need a very old Macintosh to plug this in.
My hope was that the drive would be fully functional upon arrival, but for my disappointment, it wasn’t. Floppy disks wouldn’t get into the drive easily (I had to push them hard to get them in), and it wouldn’t eject the inserted disks afterwards. Needless to say it wasn’t reading the disks either.
So, I was determined to attempt a refurbish to this drive, as I do have a spare internal floppy removed from a non-working Mac SE that I thought it could work as a donor to this project. In the end, I didn’t have to try the “transplant” as the old drive did work after some hard cleaning and lubing works.
Have been working on my Mac Plus for a while, and I wanted it to be able to boot from an external SCSI drive. Up to now, I was using a Iomega Zip Drive (after sweating a lot to get it to work with the plus), but Zip Drives are not really reliable (specially an almost 25 years old one).
So, searching on the net, I realized many people complained about the inability of the Mac Plus to boot from an external SCSI2SD. On top of that, the fact that the Mac Plus is one of the few Macs that doesn’t provide SCSI bus termination power forced the external SCS2SD card to be powered by an external power source (i.e. USB or something else).
Looking further, I found some old documents and discovered that it was possible to add SCSI Bus termination power to the Plus. A very simple mod allowed for that. In fact, the ONLY thing needed is the addition of a diode to the logic board, right behind the SCSI connector. Funny thing is that Apple, apparently, accounted for that in the past, as the diode “place holder” already exists in the board (position CR1, as highlighted in red in the picture below).
So, I took a deep breath and decided to attempt the mod. In the picture below you can see the diode soldered to the place holder. I used a diode recovered from an old power supply I had. Its markings were UF2010 (UF stands for ultra-fast). It supports up to 1000v, but of course, in our case, only 5v will be crossing the diode. Be careful to solder the diode following the markings. Diodes allow for current to flow through one direction, but not the other. Adding it in the wrong direction would create issues. You don’t have to use the same diode I used. A more common one – such as a 1n4001 – would do just fine. Just make sure it takes 5v or more and about 1 amp (or more).
I wasn’t much confident this mod would work, as it was way too simple. But it did! In the video below (sorry about the quality, still learning how to create good videos) you can see the solution fully working on a Mac Plus.
The first batch of Iomega Zip 100 drives didn’t have a power switch. Only the later model – the Zip Plus – came with one (it was shared with the eject button). This is quite annoying, as the drive is kept in a “always-on” state… many people didn’t bother at the time (20 years ago), but now it might become an issue, as those drives are becoming more rare and keeping it energised at all times might accelerate its deterioration.
So – I thought – why not add a power switch to my Iomega Zip 100 SCSI drive, so I can leave it cabled and ready to go at all times? Sounded like an easy and a good idea, so I attempted it. And suceeded!
Below, I share the pictures of this little project. I begin by desoldering the power connector from the Zip drive board. I then lifted up the 5v leg of it. The idea was to solder a wire to this leg, then to the power switch and then another wire back to the Zip drive board (where the leg originally was soldered to).
Below you can see the power connector soldered back to the board, but with the 5v leg isolated and soldered to the brown wire. This wire will later on be soldered to the power switch.
This is the back side of the board, showing the other wire soldered to the place where the leg on the power connector previously was.Even though the wire used is also brown, this is another wire.
It was then time to prepare the Zip drive case to receive the power switch. I chose a small lever switch for this project, as it was what I had at the time. In the picture below you can see the whole drilled in the back of the case – just above one of the SCSI connectors.
Below you see the power switch in place (not yet wired).
Now, with the wires soldered in place
And now, with the switch in place, already in the process of assembling all together.
That’s it! It works beautifully and I would say it is a must have addition to all old Iomega Zip drives. I have no clue why Iomega haven’t done this originally. Still today, it makes no sense to me!
The SCSI2SD solution allows you to replace old SCSI hard drives with modern SD cards. It is almost a must-have piece of technology to everyone who is into collecting vintage computers (specially old Macs). The reason is simple: It is virtually impossible to find a reliable SCSI hard drive nowadays (I mean, old-school SCSI drives, not modern ones). And even if you can find a working one at a decent price tag, it will most certainly die after a couple of years anyways, as those disks have been around for decades.
I have been using the SCSI2SD solution for a while, now. Have applied to vintage Mac notebooks, to Mac desktops (such as the PowerMac 6100/60 DOS Compatible I have) and I have even used it on a NeXT Station I had in the past. It just works!
One of the best things about those little boards is that it doesn’t require external power to function. It can draw power directly from the SCSI power termination pin, which makes it an amazing solution for an external SCSI drive!
If you never saw one, below is a picture of a SCSI2SD card (v5.1 depicted, which is the version I have)
In my case, to add it to the case of a SCSI Jaz drive, I had to disolder the 4 pin power connector, as if I didn’t, it wouldn’t fit the case (see below). I then soldered a pair of wires to the 5v / GND coming from the Jaz board on to the SCSI2SD board (yellow and brown wires in the below picture). See that the picture shows the power connector on the SCSI2SD board removed (“A”). I also soldered a LED on the “B” highlighted part (J304), so that the Jaz drive case would light up upon being powered.
The initial idea was to add a SD extender to the project, adding the SD case to the front of the Jaz drive, for easy SD card swapping. That didn’t work as expected because, for some reason, the SCSI2SD board did not like the SD extender. So, I gave it up and removed the extender.
After assembling everything and trying it out on a Macintosh Classic, it worked like magic! I used an 8GB SD card and Lido to create the 4 2GB volumes (as older versions of System 7 can’t deal with more than that). I also had to configure the SCSI2SD to present the SD card as 4 2GB SCSI volumes, instead of a single 8GB SCSI disk. This is easily achieved using the SCSI2SD utility downloadable from their website. Below you can see the final result. Note that NO POWER SUPPLY is needed to get this to work! It draws power directly from the SCSI termination power pin.
I tested the solution on 3 different Macs I own: The 6100/60, the PowerBook duo 230 (connected to the docking bay) and the Macintosh Classic. In all of them, it worked flawlessly. I just connect the drive to the SCSI port and all the 4 volumes are detected.
The only drawback was with my Mac Plus. Since the SCSI architecture on the Plus is different than all other Macs, the Plus is VERY picky when it comes to SCSI peripherals. I was able to get my Zip Drive to work with it (after a LOT of work), but I couldn’t get this external SCSI2SD to go along with it. For starters, the Mac Plus DOES NOT provide termination power. But even with an external power supply attached to the Jaz case I could not get it to be seen by the Plus.
EDIT: I got it to work with the Mac Plus. It required some additional work, but it finally worked. You can see the post here!
I have created a small video showing the solution. Hope you enjoy it!